Day 13: Reflection - Humbled By Privilege

This will be the last day of trekking as we make it back to Lukla. On the last leg from Namche Bazaar to Lukla we'll hike about 6 hours, descend nearly 4,000 ft of elevation and hit a number of suspension bridges. This will be an afternoon of exhausted celebration having completed:

• 80+ miles over 
• 60+ hours of hiking
• ~32,000 feet of gross elevation change

Running through this itinerary has really helped me prepare for this trip and start to grasp the significance of it. Thinking about getting back to Lukla and feeling both relieved, accomplished, hopeful for the victims of trafficking, and utterly exhausted I had to pause. The rush of everything that is now the past leaves an impact on me but also those I've trekked with, met along the way and every part of the trail that I have walked on...all part of the connection created.

As I mentioned before, the majority of this trek takes place in Sagarmatha National Park and UNESCO has listed the upper regions of this park as a World Heritage Site. As foreigners continue to visit, it changes things including the environment, culture and the land. In an attempt to protect the land and culture, UNESCO declared this area a World Heritage Site. We we visit, it's important to remember the accountability and responsibility we have while we're there.

This sign marks the entrance to the area:

This is a great reminder and mindset I will carry with me on this trek. I recognize the privilege this trek is and am truly humbled and grateful for this opportunity and experience.

Usual Themes

Seeing and appreciating every part of the people and culture is something I'm really looking forward to. However, I do still plan on sticking to my usual #laughmore #littlethings #openyoureyes themes as well. While the big mountain views will be impressive, I don't want to miss the little things that are right in front of me along the way.

Learning that I should keep my eyes open around these places for interesting spots to stop. Pool anyone?

I've heard warnings about waiting for animals to cross the suspension bridges...good warning! Don't want to get hung up on a yak horn trying to pass them up on one of these! Apparently the weight isn't a problem though...

The sound of a bell is believed to welcome divinity and dispel evil which is why they are rung when entering temples in Nepal. 

So much to learn and so little time...I may just have to go back someday ;)

Just a reminder that fundraising continues for the victims of human trafficking. Please consider giving if you are able. Thank you!

Behind the Scenes: Day 12 - How have we not talked Yeti?!

Continuing with Day 12 and heading back to Namche Bazaar we'll go through Pangboche and Tengbouche on another 7 hour trek. 

Turns out there's a monastery in Pangboche with a whole saga about a yeti hand and skull cap. Spoiler alert: BBC has determined it's human but they myth of the Yeti still lives. I'll be sure to keep my eyes open!

Then we'll get to Tengbouche which has one of the largest monasteries in the Khumbu region of Nepal. We will be stopping at it on the way up to Base Camp for a prayer ceremony. You can take a virtual tour of the monastery here:

Tengbouche also has panoramic views of the Himalayas that I will make sure to soak up as much on the way down as on the way up.

View of Nuptse, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam from Tengbouche

We should arrive in Namche Bazaar in the afternoon. This is a place I definitely want to take some time to explore! 

Day in the Life of a EBC Trekker

As far as prepping and getting ready, this morning I did my last workout with Align before my trip. Can't say enough good stuff about Ana and Tyler and their coaching and training program development to help me get ready for this trip. All the hikes, pack weights, hills, progression of it came from them. They're fabulous, genuine, highly qualified, and passionate about what they do and I couldn't have done this without them. 

Bring it on. All of it. I'm ready.

As I sat, drinking my coffee this morning, contemplating being six days from what will likely be the biggest trip of my life, I spun around in my chair to get up for a refill and had to pause at the view. 

Three pair of hiking boots, one of my packs (two are out of frame), a table full of snacks to prep, luggage tags, Nepal entry info and I said: HOLY SHIT THIS IS ACTUALL HAPPENING IN SIX. DAYS.

Be Still My Beating Heart...Himalayan Sunrises, Sunsets, Night Sky

Day 12 and we'll be on our way from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar the net descent will be about 2,500 feet and end up about 11,300 ft for the night. This is the second to last day of trekking and tomorrow we'll be back at Lukla.

I was looking at the itinerary and realizing that each evening, night, and morning will have an opportunity that I've been overlooking...

I'm a sucker for sunrises, sunsets, and the night sky...always have been and on this trip, I'm going to be catching as many of them as I can. I can't imagine I'll ever see the night sky views like this again in my life and I can't wait for it!

Above image from reddit with post quoted here: "With altitude sickness symptoms coming on, I was restless and took a walk at night. It didn't help that we had a clear sky and the moon illuminated the landscape, changing it into another world. I scrambled higher and higher until this scene came into view. Standing there looking at the impossibly detailed nightscape, iridescent with colorful lights and reflections, and the prehistoric mountain looming in the distance, I was in absolute awe."

Here's a time-lapse video with some views of Mt Everest at night...

I may not sleep much on this trip but it wouldn't be the first time. I've made it on 22 hours of sleep on an 8 night trip in the last year getting up for sunrises, night skies...well, work too but that's another story for another blog and another day LOL.

Expect some videos, time lapse and lots of pics from these amazing sights...

Enjoy the Anticipation

In 9 DAYS I will be on my way...headed over 7,500 miles away from home for this life-changing experience. While the time to leave closes in and the anticipation and excitement grows, my itinerary review has me starting to descend. 

On Day 11, we'll hike up to Kala Patthar then back down to Pheriche which will put me back under 14,000 ft. This day...having to turn around and walk away from that 18,000 ft viewpoint will be unreal. In that moment it all starts becoming the past...memories, experiences, photos, journal entries, videos. The people, the views, the conversations...everything learned, smelled, touched, walked on...the passing of the time...all filed away in my mind.

Before a big trip, I once had someone tell me to enjoy the anticipation. That went in my book of Wisest Things I've Ever Heard and I really appreciate it right now.

Down to only 9 days and things are getting pretty crazy prep-wise. I'm leaning on my Everest Home Team and lining them up to take care of everything while I'm gone. It is really taking a small village to get me there and back and keeping everything running while I'm gone. 

I'm a really lucky woman to have so many wonderful people in my life that just raised a hand or offered before I even had to ask...David, Ashlei, Sarah^2, Anna, Marivic, Julie, Sonia...thanks, y'all. I am so very blessed in so many ways.

I could be freaking out but that does nothing good for me or anyone around me. I'm choosing to turn the anxiety into anticipation and to enjoy it. Now if I could just get like 5 extra hours out of today that'd be great - LOL!

Behind the Scenes: Day 11 - Sunrise at the Top of the World

Base Camp will be awesome, but today is THE. DAY. These will be the once-in-a-lifetime-views we'll have been waiting for on this trip.

Likely the most difficult part of the trek as we'll be up early to hike about 2 hours up Kala Patthar to 18,225 feet to catch the sunrise on Mount Everest - literally the top of the world. I can't even really imagine what this is going to feel like...physically, mentally, or emotionally but I'm just gonna roll with it.

Pics can't do it justice so I'm hitting you with a video. Check out these views...

 

Day 11 - Hike Up to Kala Patthar (18,225ft) and Trek Down to Pheriche (13,780ft ~ 7 hours)

This will be one of the most difficult, yet rewarding, days of the trek. Most of the early morning is spent climbing Mt. Kala Patthar, a small peak at 5,555m. The ascent is demanding, but the climber gets the most magnificent mountain panorama of Everest, the highest point on the planet! Then we make a quick descent to Gorak Shep to have a hot breakfast and then trek down to Pheriche.

Behind the Scenes: Day 10 - BASE CAMP DAY!!!

Today is the day we reach Mount Everest Base Camp! I'm so excited to hit this milestone of the trip. At this point we'll be about 42 miles into the trek and have ascended about 9,000 ft in 7 days.

Everest Base Camp trek is considered one of the toughest in the world because of it's sheer length and number of days required. I anticipate being pretty wiped out physically by day 10. Days of hiking, altitude, cold weather and interrupted sleep will take a bit of a toll. My body will be wiped out but my heart will be full and my mind will be centered as the connection I mentioned in my prior post keeps living, breathing, and strengthening to carry me through. 

Today will be a big and difficult trek along the Khumbu Glacier and up to Everest Base Camp. This is the closest you can get to Mt. Everest without mountaineering equipment! We'll hike up to the Base Camp at 17,601 ft and then back to Gorak Shep that is just under 17,000 ft. It's expected we'll be hiking for about 8 hours.

We'll get some great views of the Khumbu Icefall from here. 

Kind of reminds me of the Sneffels hike but with ice and we won't be climbing up the icefall though. I'm okay with that given Sneffels felt like hours of burpees and loaded bear crawls getting up those rocks!

If you want more information on the Khumbu Glacier and the icefall movement check this out.

Behind the Scenes: Day 9, Glacier Anatomy

Day 09 - Trek to Lobuche (16,108ft ~ 5 hours)

The trail today continues along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. Turns out this glacier stuff is pretty cool. PBS actually does a pretty good job of laying it out short and sweet in a three part series.

"Geologically, the Khumbu Icefall sits in a vast amphitheater of rock. Where the mountaineers only see mountains, geologists see a remarkable absence of rock. The mountains are relics of a collisional process. The glaciers have literally removed the mountains, rock by rock, and have taken them down to rivers, which have transported them to the sea. And the quantity is extraordinary. Approximately nine-tenths of the Himalaya has gone, and what's left are these puny little peaks which of course are the targets of all these mountaineers' attempts at glory."—Roger Bilham

We'll also pass by stone memorials for climbers who have perished on nearby summits and head to the village of Lobuche, which is located at the foot of the giant Lobuche peak. 

Today we'll gain over 1,600 ft of altitude will be ending over 16,000 ft. I anticipate things will get a little tougher physically but we're one day away from base camp!

Connection

Talking about all the logistics and sights and altitude is great and all but it's not really the whole picture. I wanted to take an itinerary break today to give this some more thought so forgive me if I ramble a bit as this post gets a bit more personal.

There's something about all this that I really can't put my finger on. Sure, there's the physical and mental challenges...training...packing...but that all just feels like checking boxes.

People keep saying what a "life changing experience" this is - and I've said it and felt it myself but haven't been able to articulate why. I took some time the last couple days as I am really feeling the emotion and enormity of the trip sneaking up on me. I've managed to break it down to one word: CONNECTION

Being outside has always been a place for me that brings peace and settles my soul. There's a very personal connection I have with nature and this planet we sit on. It's where I reset, recenter, process, and accept life for what it is and what it brings. Time gets to stop and for a short time everything just is. Quietly. Simply. Authentically.

I expected to feel this to an extreme on this trip but how it's happening is taking me by surprise. The connection feels like it's already living and breathing despite being 7,529 miles and 13 days away. It's almost like it's inviting me...calling me to make sure I'm ready to soak up how huge this connection to the people, planet, culture and cause will be.

I get 17 days to literally walk this path. Yes, it will be cold, I don't know where I'll be sleeping every night, or if I'll get a [hot] shower, or what I'll be eating or what the coffee or cell coverage/wi-fi situation is...ummm...boo-f'in-hoo. I am doing this because of and to bring hope to people who live in modern day slavery and I choose to count my blessings. 

I get 17 days of deepening this multi-faceted connection I am just starting to glimpse and sense. A year ago I never could have dreamed I'd be able to take 17 days to do this but here it is, 13 days away.

That somehow life led me here...afforded me the health, strength, and means to make this happen and advocate for the cause is nothing short of amazing. I'm humbled and grateful. 

Life changing, no doubt.

Behind the Scenes: Day 8 - Zero Progress, Great Views

Day 08 - Acclimatization Hike to Nangkartshang Peak (16,677ft ~ 4 hours)

This will be an interesting day. We'll wake up at 14,470 ft, will climb up to 16,677 ft, then head back to Dingboche for the night and sleep at 14,470. Over the few days prior, we'll have gained about 3,000 ft and now being over 14,000 calls for another day to acclimate.  The trek up to Nangkartshang Peak and back down will give my body a peek at what's coming up while still allowing for acclimatization at night. 

We don't make progress towards Everest Base Camp. Instead we will take a hike to the Nangkartshang Peak just above Dingboche. The peak has an excellent view of the gorgeous Ama Dablam. 

They say we can spend the afternoon strolling around the village or resting. I'm not sure if I'll be resting or strolling in the afternoon but my guess is strolling because these feet really don't stop! We'll see and I'll need to take into account what's ahead the next few days. 

However, climbing higher than I've done before and gaining over 2,200 ft of elevation I fully expect to hit pretty hard. At this point, base camp is two days away...

Behind the Scenes: Day 7 - My highest elevation yet!

I'm super excited for this day of the trek. We'll end at about the elevation of highest peak in the lower 48 states (Mount Whitney at 14,494 ft) and I will hit the highest elevation I've ever been at (Mt. Sneffels, 14,150).

We'll gain about 1,800 ft in elevation and at this altitude, the effective oxygen will be at 12.1%. At sea level it's about 20%. Given we'll have been at altitude for 7 days, I anticipate feeling pretty good at this point.  

Day 07 - Trek to Dingboche (14,470 ft ~ 5 hours)

From Tengboche, the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge over the Imja Khola River. 

From there, we'll climb to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones (stones with prayers inscribed on them). 

The trek continues uphill, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. 

As I read through this itinerary, I'm definitely becoming more comfortable with the pace and acclimation time we'll be getting. I'll also be taking meds to help combat altitude sickness which gives me more confidence that I'll be able to absorb the experience more fully.

Only 15 days until it's go time...

Behind the Scenes: Day 6

Day 06 - Trek to Tengboche (12,664ft ~ 5 hours)

The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Koshi with magnificent views of the mountains. Our group has the opportunity to visit a Buddhist monastery and observe a prayer ceremony.

We'll be starting in Namche Bazaar which is at 11,286 feet and ending in Tengboche at 12,664 feet. WIt should take about 5 hours of hiking, has a total elevation gain of 2,881 feet and a net elevation gain of 1,378 feet. This is because about half way on the trail, there is a large decrease in elevation before gaining all that elevation back (and then some) during the last portion of trail.  

As we wind our way around the valley the mountain of Ama Dablam will come in and out of view, as well as the Everest mountain range further out in the distance.

This is also probably the best view of Everest that we will get until we climb up Kala Patthar (over 18,000ft) the day after Base Camp.

We'll still be under 14,000 ft at the end of the day so I'm hoping altitude won't be too big of an issue. It will be Day 7 before we hit 14,200 which will be the highest elevation I've ever been and we'll see how things go from there.

Behind the Scenes: Day 5 (Acclimation Day and Being Present)

 Day 05 - Namche Bazaar Acclimation Day (11,289ft)

We will spend a day in Namche Bazaar in order to acclimate. We will do a short trek to a museum that is celebrated for its exhibits of the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Expect to learn a lot about Nepalese history and culture and to get some great photos. 

It's suggested that we focus on being present to create and engrain the beauty of the views into life long memories. I have this process I do on every trip to file it away and solidify the memories of it - it's an intentional process and I can't really describe it but it works for me. Preparing to do this for Everest is part of my mental prep. This is a once-in-a-lifetime thing and being able to be present, positive, and focused on what is around me instead of what my body is feeling or what's running through my mind will be key. 

We will also hike up to Everest View Hotel, one of the highest-placed hotels in the world, where we can see some breathtaking views of the Himalayas (including Mount Everest)!

At only 11,289 feet, I know I won't be sleeping great. My heart rate will be high, my pulse ox will be low at night and sleep will be disrupted. Here's some info from this site:

Even at sea level, humans normally breathe more slowly while sleeping and experience mildly low levels of oxygen in the blood. This "hypoxia" worsens at high altitude because there is so much less oxygen in the air.

The result is a highly abnormal pattern of breathing during sleep at high altitude. When the brain senses low blood-oxygen levels, it forces the body to take three or four deep breaths. These deep breaths bring blood carbon-dioxide levels far below normal, which leads to a cessation of breathing altogether for a period of eight to 12 seconds. When the blood-oxygen level again falls low enough, the cycle begins anew.

This disordered breathing pattern usually disrupts sleep, making climbers fatigued and mistake-prone during the day. 

Sleeping over 8,000 ft is when, despite all the training, I'll start feeling the physicality of the trek. And we'll have 5 more days until we hit base camp and in 6 we'll be at our max of 18,000 ft. 

On that note...I'm heading out for a hike! 

Behind the Scenes: Day 4

Today I learned that most of our trek will take place in a National Park in Nepal and I spent a lot of time reading and looking at pics of what's to come. My eyes will be drinking from the fire hose and I will be taking a lot of photos, videos and journal writing to try capture everything. 

Day 04 - Trek to Namche Bazaar (11,289ft ~ 5.5 hours)

We'll be gaining 2,700 feet in elevation on day 4 as we make this hike. At this altitude and this time of year, we expect temps to be in the mid 30's F during the day. Perfect hiking weather if you ask me. Also, having hiked at this altitude, I'm confident this hike will be an easy one. Looking forward to getting to the day where I'll be higher than I was on Mt Sneffels in Colorado!

We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Koshi, crossing the majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges. Expect to have an adventurous day and maybe face some fears along the way (if you have a fear of heights the suspension bridges might be an opportunity for personal growth)! 

After entering the Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Mount Everest actually lies within this park. Many, if not all of our other trek stops, will take place in this park.

Namche Bazaar is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, shops, money exchange services, etc. This will be a great day for photos and soaking in the natural beauty of Nepal.

I couldn't help but take a peek ahead at some of the next few days. I can't wait to get there and take all this in with my own eyes. It's going to be spectacular.

Behind the Scenes: Days 2-3 (World's Most Dangerous Airport)

Day 02 - Trek Prep & City Tour

We tour Durbar Square, Pashupatinath Temple, Swayambhunath Stupa, and Bouddhanath Stupa which are all UNESCO world heritage sites. We will also be doing a justice tour of the Red Light District to close out the day.

Pashupatinath Temple

Day 03 - Fly to Lukla (9,199ft ~ 40 min) and Trek to Phakding (8,562ft ~ 4 hours)

Our guides will take us to the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu for an early morning 40 minute scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport in Lukla. After landing we have time to explore the village. 

Lukla is considered the world's most dangerous airport. Check out this video...while dangerous, the views are incredible!

Once we land here, this is where we begin our trek in the Everest region. We will start by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail. 

Dudh Kosi River

On an easy walk, we will pass through the small village of Ghat (8,366ft), and then it is only a short walk to Phakding.

Village of Phakding

I'm loving walking through this itinerary and checking out photos and reading more about this adventure. It's getting me more excited and mentally prepared. Physically I'm ready but keep training... my biscuits are burning from this morning's workout thanks to my awesome coaches at Align :)

Hope you'll stick around to see it play out and would appreciate if you could consider a donation.

Behind the scenes: Days 0-1

I'm starting my itinerary review for a couple of reasons. First, I'm mentally preparing for what this trip will look like. Second, I want to share with you how long of a trek this...if you get tired of reading it just think about how tiring actually hiking it will be! 

Day 00 - Drive to ORD and Fly Out (873ft)

I'll be taking a bus from Madison to Chicago on November 2nd. We will fly out of Chicago at 1:30am on November 3. The first leg of the flight will be 13h 20 min and we'll land in Doha, Qatar. We then leave Doha at 1:30am and take a 4h 15m flight to Kathmandu where we'll land at 8:30am on November 4.

Day 01 - Arrive in Kathmandu (4,593ft)

Arrive in Kathmandu, the capital city, as a group at the Tribhuvan International Airport where we will meet our guides. 

Note that Kathmandu time is 10h 45 minutes ahead of Madison time so 8:30am will feel like 9:45pm. I will have traveled 7,529 mi in the 27 hours prior and have a full day ahead of me. Everyone in the group will be tired and getting 20 people through customs and getting visas for each person is going to take a while. Here's where I'll really start to get to know my fellow trekkers...let's hope it's a kind and patient group. 

Interesting tidbit: You can see Mt. Everest from Kathmandu if conditions are good...

Holy Hills

Training time is tough to come by right now and when that's the case I've been hitting hills. Having just climbed from 11k to 14k feet in Colorado to the summit of Mt. Sneffels I can say that hills with 50 lbs on feels the closest to climbing at altitude. It's an ass kicker. 

Here's my watch's report out after 90 min and 3 mi of hills today.

Yeah. 60 hours of recovery time won't happen, Garmin, but thanks for the info. 😆

Thanks to my sis for keeping me company today! I'm a huge fan of fall so the cooler temp and the purty leaves weren't all bad either.

21 Days. That's It.

It's only twenty-one days until I leave Madison to head to Nepal and trek to Mount Everest Base Camp with WE International. This will certainly be the trek of a lifetime and I've been so excited about it that I almost forgot it's a thing that's actually going to happen in

21 DAYS.

THAT'S IT.

From now until the trip I'll be reviewing the itinerary for each day along with my journey getting ready for it all...training, packing, fundraising.

I am trying to get set up on wi-fi along the trek path and will be posting updates to this blog from my phone when I'm able. Along with what I post here, I'll be keeping a pen and paper journal and taking lots and lots of photos.

Stay tuned...shit's getting real.